Tuesday 30 August 2011

5 giorni a New York

Ecco per chi fosse interessato un breve report del mio viaggio negli States con la mia famiglia al completo! I primi cinque giorni a New York sono stati molto intensi, abbiamo voluto visitare proprio tutto, ed stato un tour de force.... NY mi ha colpito positivamente pur essendo una grande città, (io di solito non le amo): molte cose mi ricordavano Friends e Sex In The City e How I Met Your Mother, insomma tutti i miei telefilm preferiti di un decennio concentrati in 5 giorni!
Ho avuto l'opportunità di rivedere dopo un anno il mio caro amico Jamie, conosciuto in India, che mi ha fatto fare un giro in bicicletta di notte: proprio sulla sua bicicletta, io stavo seduta sul sellino e lui pedalava... molto divertente e intenso... stupendo il panorama notturno dello Skyline visto da Brooklin... strano, a me di solito non piacciono i panorami molto antropizzati ma questo qui è davvero affascinante... 
La cosa più carina che abbiamo visto con mio fratello forse è stato il nuovo parco High Line; si tratta di un parco costruito su una ex linea ferroviaria sopraelevata che taglia tutta lower Manhattan: stavano per smantellarla, ma un gruppo di newyorkesi si è opposto e così sono riusciti a far progettare e realizzare questo stupendo parco urbano, con vegetazione simile a quella che cresce spontanea sulle ferrovie. Piacevole la sensazione di camminare in mezzo al verde tra i grattacieli, non circondati dallo smog delle auto...

A Central Park ho incontrato il cast del Musical HAIR che stava svolgendo una sessione fotografica, e li ho fotografati anche io... adoro i loro vestiti e capelli!

   
Ovviamente quando i miei hanno pensato di andare a vedere un musical a Broadway io ho suggerito questo.... spettacolare...  atmosfera sixties pacifista... voci veramente notevoli e belle coreografie... la trama è quella della nascita del movimento dei figli dei fiori nel contesto degli Stati Uniti impegnati nella guerra del Vietnam... i cantanti coinvolgevano il pubblico e poi è stato divertente vederlo con i miei, uno show cosi anticonformista, dove a un certo punto si ritrovano tutti nudi sul palco!
Abbiamo visitato, anche se velocemente, tutti i musei piu' importanti: Ellis Island come suggerito da Sara è davvero una esperienza istruttiva sull'emigrazione, impressionante come negli anni venti loro la gestivano meglio di noi nel 2011 nella nostra Lampedusa, nonostante i milioni di arrivi ... purtroppo però la selezione era davvero fatta per le spiccie: bastava una congiuntivite per essere etichettati come malati contagiosi e rimandati a casa senza troppi complimenti...
Nel Metropolitan ho visto per la prima volta dei dipinti di Georgia O'Keeffee, l'autrice di uno dei quadri che ho copiato, quello dei papaveri... davvero emozionante... grandissima pittrice che fece scandalo negli anni '30 con le sue gigantografie di fiori dipinti molto da vicino che ricordavano parti anatomiche... da rivalutare...


E poi i miei colleghi di arte contemporanea potranno immaginare i miei gridolini euforici appena ho visto i miei primi Frida Kahlo, fra cui c'era uno fra i miei preferiti:

l'autoritratto con i capelli tagliati, che mi ha quasi causato una sindrome di Stendhal.... o forse era solo emozione e nostalgia di passioni perdute... lei indossa il vestito del marito Diego Rivera che aveva appena deciso di lasciare perché aveva troppe altre relazioni... si taglia i capelli
come simbolo di perdita e di lutto... è piccolo e molto intimo... sono entrata molto dentro l'atmosfera del quadro, ed è stato quasi terapeutico.
Sia al Met che al MoMA ho visto due nudi di Modigliani, simili a quello che ho copiato, che mi hanno fatto tantissimo effetto...
ho la conferma che lui era un dio del disegno e del colore. Anche questo mi ha dato molta nostalgia del tempo in cui tentavo di emularlo, e della dedizione con la quale dipingevo per ore per finirlo prima di una certa data di tre anni fa...
Infine siamo stati anche a vedere il palazzo dell'ONU al cui interno abbiamo avuto la fortuna di trovare la mostra  del World Press Photo Awards, che premia
le migliori fotografie giornalistiche del 2010, selezionate fra oltre 3000.000 foto, stampate in 1m x 50cm.... qui ce ne sono alcune....

Pare che a New York ci sia una vera passione per l'organic food ultimamente: peccato che essa contribuisca a rimarcare ancora di più il "food divide" fra l'americano benestante e l'americano medio, in quanto i supermecati "Whole Food" sono davvero carissimi, mentre gli odiati McDonald's e simili offrono i loro cibi (responsabili di assassinii di animali e di uomini) a prezzi imbattibili e in "size" sempre più "over".
Altro neo: la metropolitana, complicatissima e per niente intuitiva, spesso i treni cambiavano linea in corsa, annunciandolo solamente un momento prima, e c'è voluto un po' perché capissimo perché i passeggeri uscivano dalla vettura imprecando a gran voce! Inoltre non ho apprezzato le luci delle insegne pubblicitarie di Time Square, che mi sono sembrate veramente eccessive e uno spreco inutile di energia, mentre l'Empire State Building si vanta di essere l'edificio a maggiore efficienza energetica degli Stati Uniti.
In definitiva, non credo che vivrei volentieri a New York, e non capisco la sfrenata passione dichiarata da Woody Allen in un film come Manhattan, ma da visitare è davvero una città accattivante.

Friday 20 August 2010

Not so Holy Cow

One of the reason because I decided to come to India was that this is the home-land of vegetarianism.
There are millions of vegetarians in India, and the Indian cooking is mostly vegetarian, so I decided to use this month as my "trial period" of vegetarianism, to see how my body and my thoughts reacted to this changement.
Consequently, I have been thinking about this topic a lot in these days.

Like everyone else, I was fascinated by the "myth" of the Holy Cow, that in India is supposed to be revered by Hindus as a sacred animal...
Also, I expected people here to have a different attitude towards animals, due to the massive presence of vegetarians here.

After three weeks in this country, though, I realised that it's not so linear as it seems.
India is the land of contradictions, and the attitude towards animals isn't an exception.

Yesterday, for example, we were driving on a road in West Tamil Nadu, and we saw a crowd of people preciously dressed.
We stopped and as we looked a little more, we saw many stalls with porks hanging dismembered and covered in blood.

This view became even more disgusting when we saw a big quiet pig being dragged by four cruel looking guys, surrounded by dozens of excited others, and by some women that poured flowers on the floor, and other men playing drums.

They explained us that this was a tribal celebration, contemplating animal sacrifice.

A few years ago the Hindus wanted to forbidden this practices, but the tribal people took it as a threat to their credences, and refused.
This view was very shocking for me, particulary looking at the cruel stare of the executioners.


As a contrast with this episode, I recalled the memory of the workshop on veganism that my brand new friend Jamey took in Sadhana Forest, starting by the idea of AHIMSA: the pursuit of a life non violence, central in every Yoga practice.

In a vegan life-style AHIMSA can be spelled as follow (quotation from Jamey):

Abstinence from animal product
Harmless with reverence for life
Integrity of Thought, world and actions
Mastery over oneself
Service to humanity, nature and compassion
Advancement of understanding and truth.

This is the life that I really would like to practice, doing the very best that I can (I will be vegetarian, but not vegan, I'm afraid).

But in India there is more then animal sacrifice, talking about animal treatment.

For instance, there's the issue of the treatement of animal products to be sell in the Western market.

First of all, one must remember that India is a poor country. 800 million of people here are poor. The rich people are 10 milions (1% of the total population), and they alone are able to make India one of the laregest consumer luxury market in the world.
But still, in many aspects, Indian economy depends on Western demand.

And one of the most request Indian product abroad is leather. Leather shoes, bags, and boots.
India is the world largest exporter of leather.

But, as the cow is "Holy", killing of cows is banned in all States except two.
Still, Western demand of leather leads to illegal leather trade in India.

It is forbidden to bring cows across State borders, but the traders bribe officials to look on the other side while they pass with veicles packed with suffocating cows.
Other thousands of cows are made to walk forcefully, without food or water, to cross the state border and be killed into the Slaughterhouses.

Once there, they are dismembered whilst still conscious, and in full view of one another.

One could ask: what am I suppose to do to prevent this to happen? I live very far away from there.

This is a fake answer: I am part of the world, I am not an individual, I am connected to every person in the world.
The way I spend my money is very important.
We, Westerns, have the most powerful mean to stop this inhuman treatment: boycotting Indian leather and leather in itself, and stop wearing the skin of dismembered animals.

Saturday 14 August 2010

India and the lost power of the mystical union


When I arrived in Kerala I was sure that I wanted to experience the full body Ayurvedic massage with herbal massage oil. I wanted to do it in the evening, but, with my disappointment, I was told that the evening is reserved only for gents (men), and that ladies can do it only in the morning or afternoon. I started thinking about the women situation in India, and started to think about the ancient Hindu culture compared with the contemporary India.
In contemporary India people live a total segregation between men and women. Everywhere there are separate lines for Ladies, even at the security check at the airport, there is a private lounge room for ladies and mother feeding in every station, and if you enter a bus or ferry you will notice that the women gather together to the ladies seats, while the men stay on the other side, watching them from the distance.

Teresa, my new friend, talked a little about this subject with the 24 years old Hindu masseuse that was giving her this massage in a Ayurvedic Hospital. She was cute and cheery, but her English wasn’t so clear. Anyway, she first asked her why she had this little dot at the edge of the forehead. She answered that that symbol indicated that she was a married woman. She was married since one month, so Teresa asked her how she met her husband. She said that she put a “broom call” in the local daily newspaper. Discussing it with me, Teresa wondered how it was possible that a cute young girl had to do something like that to find a man willing to marry her. I claimed that it was due to the segregation of sexes and to the overpopulation as well. There isn’t an easy way to meet a man in India, a part of being introduced to him by your parents, or putting and advice in the newspaper, unless you are a student and you go to the Secondary School or to University.
Teresa also asked her what does she prefer about her man. She answered: he doesn’t drink. Teresa and me both agreed that this isn’t really a quality, but the absence of a vice. Maybe she was only looking for a man that wouldn’t hit her when he was drunk. Quite sad, if you think about it. She was totally not demanding, she was only happy to don’t have to deal with a drunken husband.
That is really different from the original idea of relationship between men and women, showed in the ancient legends and epics of Hindu religion, like the Bhagavatha Purana. I have seen a scene taken from this poem in the Dutch Palace in Fort Cochin. Really hidden in the lady’s room downstairs there’s an ancient Hindu fresco, representing the Sri Krishna’s Maha Raasa: the Raasa of the God Krishna, that is the great dance of mystical union with Krishna.
The story tells that when the blue skinned, six handed God Krishna arrives in the forest, he starts to play his flute, making all the girls of the surrounding villages restless. They cannot sleep, they wake up and together run to join Krishna, and to play with him the Raasa, the dance of mystical union.


As you can see above, the beautiful tempera painting represents Sri Krishna surrounded by 17 Gopikas (milkmaids) in different postures of adulation and love. Krishna is laying down, and he is using two of his six hands to play the flute, and he is smiling sweetly. With another hand he is holding a girl’s chin, making her smile in tenderness. With another right hand he is holding a Gopika from the neck, while she is hanging herself on him, kissing him and looking at him in blissful devotion and surrender. Then with the left hand Krishna is holding the nipple of a big booped Gopika with two fingers, giving her pleasure, while with the other left hand he is giving pleasure to the goni of another half naked Gopika. He is doing the same with is feet, with two different Gpikas, smiling in overwhelming pleasure for the attention of the God.
The most interesting fact is that in the painting his six hands represent the idea that Krishna is duplicating himself to give to every single woman the pleasure that she deserves, to make her feel like she alone is enjoying the whole attentions of the God. Krishna really cared for the women.
Women’s pleasure was his goal, instead of his own pleasure.
Sure enough, the painting was highly protected from the possibility to take pictures by two ladies that really annoyed us, making us showing our pictures to makes sure that we hadn’t taken any photos of the fresco (we did a short video, instead).
I think there is a political meaning in not allowing pictures or postcards of this beautiful fresco, sacred and sexual at the same time. Maha Raasa has a really revolutionary message: it is a supreme celebration of divinity and love, one which is only attainable by breaking away from all social norms and bondages. The Raasa is a surrender to supreme love, to the highest calls of devotion and to ultimate freedom – a return to primal innocence where love reigns alone.
I wonder where all the love and freedom is gone in contemporary sex-phobic India.

Tuesday 3 August 2010

The continuum concept...


During these days in India I have seen so many indians holding little children in their arms, and bringing them around with them. Many fathers as well, and this is the most interesting point. We don't see so many father hanging around with children in Europe. Actually we don't see children be carried by arms by their parents. Normally they are left home, or they are put in a box with a yawning baby sitter that watches the television, while their parents work or go out.

I have been reading this book called "The Continuum Concept" by  Jean Liedloff. This is quite an old book, from 1977, but still, there's a point in it.

According to Jean Liedloff, the continuum concept is the idea that in order to achieve optimal physical, mental and emotional development, human beings — especially babies — require the kind of experience to which our species adapted during the long process of our evolution. We have to remember that, in spite of our "rational mind", we are not so different to the monkeys that I have seen around the temples of Mamalapuram:


 
The writer claims that for an infant is important to experience:
  • a constant physical contact with his mother from birth; 
  • the possibilty to breastfeeding  in response to his own body's signals;
  • being constantly carried in arms or otherwise in contact with someone, and allowed to observe while the person carrying him goes about his or her business;
  • having caregivers immediately respond to his signals (squirming, crying, etc.), without judgment, displeasure, or invalidation of his needs, yet showing no concern nor making him the constant center of attention;
In this way the child can feel that he is innately social and cooperative and that he is welcome and worthy.

From what I was able to see, this is the way Indians are still rising their child, in a way that is much more instinctual then the Western is:
 

In contrast, a baby subjected to modern Western childbirth and child-care practices often experiences:
  • traumatic separation from his mother at birth due to medical intervention and placement in maternity wards, in physical isolation;
  • at home, sleeping alone and isolated, often after "crying himself to sleep";
  • scheduled feeding, with his natural nursing impulses often ignored or "pacified";
  • being excluded and separated from normal adult activities, relegated for hours on end to a nursery, or playpen where he is inadequately stimulated by toys and other inanimate objects;
  • caregivers often ignoring, discouraging or even punishing him when he cries or otherwise signals his needs; or else responding with excessive concern and anxiety, making him the center of attention.
The writer claims that evolution has not prepared the human infant for this kind of experience. The child cannot comprehend why his desperate cries for the fulfillment of his innate expectations go unanswered, and he develops a sense of wrongness and shame about himself and his desires.
If, however, his "continuum " expectations are fulfilled, he will exhibit a natural state of self-assuredness, well-being and joy. According to the book, infants whose continuum needs are fulfilled during the early, in-arms phase grow up to have greater self-esteem and become more independent than those whose cries go unanswered for fear of "spoiling" them or making them too dependent on the parents.


We have to remember that the child is, indeed, dependent on the parents for his first years, and to treat him as he was not is un-natural and cruel.
I am really thankful with my mother for having "spoiled" me, giving me food when I needed it, and carrying me around all the time on her arms when I was little.

This book was as much inspiring as it was seeing the eyes of this  courious little monkey, not scared at all for my presence, being safe in the arm of his mother.

Monday 2 August 2010

Welcome to the Forest


Living in a forest can be pleasant, if you live with 54 people in a community in South India...
You don't even care about mosquito biting you all the time, or bed bugs creeping on your sheets...
You only care about watering the garden and mulch the trees in the forest, and prepare lunch and doing the laundry... Sadhana Forest is like this, she wants you whole and all. But in exchange of your commitment she rewards you with a bunch of great feeling to be good, and pure, and connected with the nature. And this is not so easy when you have the habit of living in a apartment in a Western city...
Sadhana Forest is a volunteers based community, part of Auroville, the Universal City in the making (see my last post; http://couchsurfingexperience.blogspot.com/2010/07/auroville-city-of-dawn.html).


The project was started in 2003 by a family of three people, that decided to settle here to escape to the vicious circle of selling and consuming, and to establish a community based on no profit work, or re-foresting a deserted area. They wanted the community to be vegan, and to be committed to sustainable living. Just after their starting, the volunteers began to arrive, and in the past this community has hosted a variable number of volunteers between 13 and 109, coming from all over the world.  They want the volunteer to share their lifestyle, and to learn as much as possible about sustainable living, organic farming, permacultur, ecology and vegan cooking. 
Here we live a communal life, wake up together and have a morning circle when we decide which job to do during the day, we work from 7 to 9, have breakfast together, then work again from 10 to 11,30. Then we are free to do whatever we want, but still there are many communal activities and seminars like permaculture, capoeira, african dance, yoga, meditation.
We dispose of water with permaculture methods like in this shower that uses bananas to suck the water of the shower.


Like always here are some drawbacks: here you have no privacy at all, and you have to share your space with many people. Anyway, living here is very quiet and makes you feel happy and tuned to the nature, so many time thank you Sadhana Forest, “may there be more forests to grow people!” 

If you want to know more about Sadhana Forest, go to this link:
http://sadhanaforest.org/wp/about/

Wednesday 28 July 2010

Auroville, the city of dawn....

So, I landed in Chennai yesterday, and I went directly to Auroville, the Universal city in the making.
It's an international city founded in the 1970s by Sri Aurobindo, a famous guru or avatar, and his spiritual companion, a french lady called "The Mother". She choose a place in the India map, and the follower found that it was a deserted place, with only a isolated banyan. This is a sacred tree in India, because with its areal roots it can multiply itself till infinity, so they decided to put a temple in the place of the banyan, and they called it the Matrimandir, and to found a city there. A city belonging to no nationality, but to the unity of mankind.
As I went out the airport and found my taxi driver with my name on a piece of paper, as it is in the movies, I was approached by a guy who wanted to share the taxi. He said that the Matrimandir is a really powerful temple, and that people are dragged in Auroville by a force, maybe your suconscious or the "super mind", but there is something, a click inside you that goes on when you heard about it the first time, and you feel that you have to come here.

This was true for me, when my friend Siddharth first mentioned it to me, I wasn't even sure to come to India, but after reading a bit about Auroville and its ideals, I immediately felt that I had to go there.

You can read about the Universal city of Auroville in this site:
http://www.auroville.org/

While in this you can read about the daily activities in here....
http://www.auroville.org.in/

Try to read about it, and let me know if the click starts inside you as well!

A passage to India

Here I am, quiet and relaxed, in a airport lounge, after having experienced a week of anxieties and hysterias.


Actually I feel sorry for the people who were around me during these days, because they had to handle with me when I was completely crazy, overwhelmed by the mixed feelings related to the preparation of my first major solo trip in a Eastern country. As always, when I start something new, I do it in style. That’s why I choose India, the long lasting trip of my dreams. And that’s why I decided to spend there a month, this summer.

Now I feel really calm, watching my Airbus A330-200 while it is in preparation for flight, for the second flight of my travel day, Venice-Dubai. Yesterday I was really concerned with packing my luggage, I had to deal with a few big dilemmas, like: to bring the big backpack or not to bring it? To bring my Single Lens Reflex or not to bring it? Finally I decided to bring both, so now I have a big backpack and a little one as well, and I prepared my poor camera to afford the 80% humidity in tropical South India in a do-it-yourself fashion. I wrapped it with plastic! It will be a great experience, in any case... I'll let you know more...


P.S.
Does anyone want to know what I brought to try to survive one month in India? Fine…

Among electronic devices I brought a net-book, two cell phones and my SLR. A torch with batteries for frequent electricity black-out. A little lamp to read at night.

I bought a first-aid kit ready to use. Medicines: finally I decided to buy the discussed Malarone, so expensive and not surely useful against malaria, Grapefruit Seed Extract, Tea tree oil, Aspirina, Tachipirina, Yogermina lactic ferments, and an anti-biotic called Bassado, Integrator of Magnesium and Potassium. Solar cream and sun glasses. Two or three different hats.

I am going to buy a mosquito repellent in India, to be sure that it’s apt for Indian mosquitos. I already have a mosquito net and a sheet impregnated with mosquito repellent.

For the travel I have an inflatable neck cushion and an eye mask; ear plugs for the noisy night of big cities like Chennai.

Three lockers and a chain for bicycle to lock the backpack while travelling by train. Two hygienic paper rolls and nappies.

Three T-shirts and three pair of trousers. A pair of sandals and a pair of trekking shoes. An Olympic bath-suit and glasses.

A binocular. Photocopies of documents and tickets.

A little bag to fix with the belt.